Tom and Jerry for Christmas

"But anybody will tell you that there is nothing that brings out the true holiday spirit like hot Tom and Jerry, and I hear that since Tom and Jerry goes out of style in the United States, the holiday is never quite the same."

While digging in to the short story collection, Murder For Christmas, I started Damon Runyon's "Dancing Dan's Christmas", a Christmas tale in typical Runyonesque fashion. I was delighted to find the above reference to the drink called Tom and Jerry. As a matter of fact, the entire story is built around the drink.

So, what's so special about that? The drink was once so popular, cartoon characters were named after it, yet today the recipe can hardly be found in even the most complete cocktail books. Why did the drink fall out of style? I have no idea, because it's delicious. I do, however, have an interesting history of the creator of the drink and how I know about it.

The concoctor of the Tom and Jerry - at least as far as we know - was one Jeremiah Clemens from Alabama. Senator and brigadier general during the mid 1800s, he opposed the South's attempt to leave the Union and, due to this unpopular opinion, was forced to move away during the War Between The States. He did return home to Huntsville, AL after the war and was buried there in Maple Hill cemetery.

Followers of my Twitter account will remember that Alabama is my home state and Huntsville is my current city of residence. Maple Hill is a fascinating and beautiful historic cemetery and one which I am very familiar with, and I have seen Clemens' headstone many a time.

Mausoleum at Maple Hill Cemetery

We Huntsvillians are up to our asses in Civil War history, and Clemens' presence would hardly make a ripple except for one thing, Jeremiah Clemens had a famous cousin, one Samuel Clemens. That's right...Mark Twain's cousin invented the Tom and Jerry. He is noted in local history books as the creator of the drink and that's where I first learned about the Tom and Jerry as a kid. Before I even learned about the Tom Collins, I knew how to make a Tom and Jerry.

By the time Runyon was writing his gangster fiction, the drink had already fallen from popularity - probably due to prohibition. 

"This hot Tom and Jerry is an old time drink that is once used by one and all in this country to celebrate Christmas with, and in fact it is once so popular that many people think Christmas is invented only to furnish an excuse for hot Tom and Jerry, although of course this is by no means true."

Since this is apparently a drink that no man can get by without during the holiday season, I discovered I must make one again. As part of my Responsible Debauchery, I am now vegan, so this recipe is the result of some experimentation to replace the egg in the drink. Single serving.

Tom and Jerry

• 1 1/2 tsp egg-replacer
• pinch of cream of tarter
• 1/8 tsp baking soda
• 2 tbl superfine sugar or powdered sugar
• 2 oz plus 1 tsp rye whiskey
• 6 to 8 oz canned coconut milk
• 1/2 oz brandy
• sprinkling of nutmeg

Note: The original recipe calls for light rum instead of whiskey, which you can easily use. This recipe echos later incarnations, such as those in Runyon's Christmas story with the rye. Mmmm, boozy.

    Warm the canned coconut milk in a small saucepan over the stove. For a vintage feel, sit your mug near it on the stove to warm the cup, too. While these are warming, put the egg-replacer in a small bowl and mix in 2 tablespoons water. The egg in this recipe is really for froth so you need a whisk and to beat the hell out of this stuff. I was born a poor person so I know how to beat an egg by hand. These days, however, most people do not so there's no shame in using an electric mixer. (Well, actually there is, but it's the season of giving, so I'll let you use electrics this time.)  

  Continue to beat and mix in baking soda, sugar, and a pinch of cream of tarter to help froth. Also beat in the teaspoon of rye to keep batter consistency. By now the milk should be warm. Be sure to beat the hell out of that, too. We want to see lots of froth and bubbles.

   Pour the egg mixture into your mug. Pour in 1/4 cup of the milk. Add the rest of the booze. Fill the mug with the rest of the milk and stir a little. Sprinkle nutmeg on top. Drink with a flourish.

This is a very strong drink and one can easily imagine getting drunk on the stuff and stealing a Santa suit with gangsters in a scene that must have inspired Bad Santa...at least that's what happens in "Dancing Dan's Christmas".

I will be revisiting the recipe for Christmas, making a punch bowl full for the family (ok, mostly me), and experimenting using chickpea water. As disgusting as that sounds, it can actually be used in a recipe as a good egg-replacer when it comes to froth. Vegans have dubbed the concoction "aquafaba", since calling desserts Chickpea Macarons sent people running to the hills.