Tom and Jerry for Christmas

"But anybody will tell you that there is nothing that brings out the true holiday spirit like hot Tom and Jerry, and I hear that since Tom and Jerry goes out of style in the United States, the holiday is never quite the same."

While digging in to the short story collection, Murder For Christmas, I started Damon Runyon's "Dancing Dan's Christmas", a Christmas tale in typical Runyonesque fashion. I was delighted to find the above reference to the drink called Tom and Jerry. As a matter of fact, the entire story is built around the drink.

So, what's so special about that? The drink was once so popular, cartoon characters were named after it, yet today the recipe can hardly be found in even the most complete cocktail books. Why did the drink fall out of style? I have no idea, because it's delicious. I do, however, have an interesting history of the creator of the drink and how I know about it.

The concoctor of the Tom and Jerry - at least as far as we know - was one Jeremiah Clemens from Alabama. Senator and brigadier general during the mid 1800s, he opposed the South's attempt to leave the Union and, due to this unpopular opinion, was forced to move away during the War Between The States. He did return home to Huntsville, AL after the war and was buried there in Maple Hill cemetery.

Followers of my Twitter account will remember that Alabama is my home state and Huntsville is my current city of residence. Maple Hill is a fascinating and beautiful historic cemetery and one which I am very familiar with, and I have seen Clemens' headstone many a time.

Mausoleum at Maple Hill Cemetery

We Huntsvillians are up to our asses in Civil War history, and Clemens' presence would hardly make a ripple except for one thing, Jeremiah Clemens had a famous cousin, one Samuel Clemens. That's right...Mark Twain's cousin invented the Tom and Jerry. He is noted in local history books as the creator of the drink and that's where I first learned about the Tom and Jerry as a kid. Before I even learned about the Tom Collins, I knew how to make a Tom and Jerry.

By the time Runyon was writing his gangster fiction, the drink had already fallen from popularity - probably due to prohibition. 

"This hot Tom and Jerry is an old time drink that is once used by one and all in this country to celebrate Christmas with, and in fact it is once so popular that many people think Christmas is invented only to furnish an excuse for hot Tom and Jerry, although of course this is by no means true."

Since this is apparently a drink that no man can get by without during the holiday season, I discovered I must make one again. As part of my Responsible Debauchery, I am now vegan, so this recipe is the result of some experimentation to replace the egg in the drink. Single serving.

Tom and Jerry

• 1 1/2 tsp egg-replacer
• pinch of cream of tarter
• 1/8 tsp baking soda
• 2 tbl superfine sugar or powdered sugar
• 2 oz plus 1 tsp rye whiskey
• 6 to 8 oz canned coconut milk
• 1/2 oz brandy
• sprinkling of nutmeg

Note: The original recipe calls for light rum instead of whiskey, which you can easily use. This recipe echos later incarnations, such as those in Runyon's Christmas story with the rye. Mmmm, boozy.

    Warm the canned coconut milk in a small saucepan over the stove. For a vintage feel, sit your mug near it on the stove to warm the cup, too. While these are warming, put the egg-replacer in a small bowl and mix in 2 tablespoons water. The egg in this recipe is really for froth so you need a whisk and to beat the hell out of this stuff. I was born a poor person so I know how to beat an egg by hand. These days, however, most people do not so there's no shame in using an electric mixer. (Well, actually there is, but it's the season of giving, so I'll let you use electrics this time.)  

  Continue to beat and mix in baking soda, sugar, and a pinch of cream of tarter to help froth. Also beat in the teaspoon of rye to keep batter consistency. By now the milk should be warm. Be sure to beat the hell out of that, too. We want to see lots of froth and bubbles.

   Pour the egg mixture into your mug. Pour in 1/4 cup of the milk. Add the rest of the booze. Fill the mug with the rest of the milk and stir a little. Sprinkle nutmeg on top. Drink with a flourish.

This is a very strong drink and one can easily imagine getting drunk on the stuff and stealing a Santa suit with gangsters in a scene that must have inspired Bad Santa...at least that's what happens in "Dancing Dan's Christmas".

I will be revisiting the recipe for Christmas, making a punch bowl full for the family (ok, mostly me), and experimenting using chickpea water. As disgusting as that sounds, it can actually be used in a recipe as a good egg-replacer when it comes to froth. Vegans have dubbed the concoction "aquafaba", since calling desserts Chickpea Macarons sent people running to the hills. 

Book Review - North Alabama Beer: An Intoxicating History

Me covering the book title (facepalm) with Sarah Bélanger, Kamara Bowling Davis

North Alabama Beer is a tour through the history of beer in an unexpected place: North Alabama. The book is obviously a great read for anyone living in the area, but I venture to think it will be of interest to a wider audience of beer lovers, especially anyone thinking of taking a trip to the area and touring all the breweries we have to offer. The changes Alabama has gone through, especially in the last decade are fascinating to read about and the authors have obviously gone through extensive research and held many interviews.

The first half of the book runs through the history of beer and alcohol in Alabama, from the earliest days before Alabama was a state, through prohibition (which was a lot longer here), and out through the battles Free the Hops waged to enable the sale of local craft beer - ending up with the flourishing craft beer business North Alabama has today. The second half is devoted to stories of how the individual breweries came to be. I felt a little confused because it suddenly changes format from chronological to geographical at this point. While I hope they make this transition a little easier in future editions, it's the only complaint I managed to have about the book, so it's hardly worth quibbling over.

I'm a fan of local Huntsville history, but these ladies managed to dredge up some facts about North Alabama I had never heard before. Perhaps because of the local stigma of any history that might include references to alcohol, perhaps because Bélanger & Davis are excellent researchers, as their extensive bibliography shows. Regardless, the history of beer is the history of mankind - in North Alabama as well as Egypt. Laws and dynasties alike rise and fall in relation to our relationship with booze. This very local book has a grand scope.
This is the first published book for authors Sarah Bélanger and Kamara Bowling Davis, though I doubt you'll be able to tell. They are dropping into the local book scene like:

I bought the book from them in person and my copy is personally signed. We talked about cats and how more women need to be involved in the Huntsville beer scene. Although their main promotional touring is slowing down, they can still be found around town at events selling their book. Check them out on Facebook and Instagram to see where they are going to be next. Go and strike up a cheery beery conversation!

My signed copy

And of course, buy the book! You can purchase it from them directly or find a paper or digital copy on Amazon.